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RACHEL ANN YOGA
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6.

1/29/2021

 
“The airport in Lukla is closed again. Wind is strong and unpredictable.” Krishna said. “I talked to some people who have been waiting here three days for their plane.” 
“Seriously?” I exclaimed. “Does that mean we’re delayed three days?” 
“Yes.” 
“Blast! That blows.” Jenna chimed in. “We’ve been waiting here for more than three hours, and they’ve been waiting for days. What are we going to do?” 
“Well, you can always do the Annapurna circuit instead.” Suggested Krishna. 
“Just bounce from Everest? Oh man, I’ve been looking forward to going to base camp for years.” I said saddened by what my ears were taking in. 
“I’m in!” Jenna said, jumping to her feet. 
“Just like that?” I asked. 
“Yeah. Just like that. I’d rather change our whole trip to the unknown instead of sitting here for three days.” 
“This is crazy. I have no idea where the Annapurna trek will take us, or even how long it is.” 
“Oh, come on dude. Where’s your sense of adventure?” 
I gave Jenna a look that could throw daggers. “Alright. Fine. I’m in too.” 
“Great. Let’s get back to the house and I’ll contact some friends that guide Annapurna.” Krishna said with an unsuspecting grin.  
We grabbed our bags and headed back to Krishna’s place. We arrived to find everything that Rina and Krishna owned laying on the front lawn. All of our mouths dropped open and Krishna rushed into the house. 
“Rina?! Rina?!” He was yelling frantically. 
Jenna nudged my elbow. “I guess no matter what country you’re in, when you’re in the doghouse, you’re in the doghouse.” 
I gave her a glare. 
“She didn’t expect us to be back, I guess this was her chance to throw him out, eh? They seem so happy together.” 
Rina came out of the house. “GIRLS! Thank goodness you’re here. We have bugs!!!” 
Jenna looked like she saw a ghost. She’s told me stories of her bed bug encounters from her previous travels. 
“Jenna? JENNA?!” I yelled in her face.   
Rina pulled her shirt up to show us her inflamed and bitten belly. “Itchy.” 
After she said, ‘itchy’, all of a sudden it was like we all had the chicken pox and began itching all over the place. 
Jenna gulped, “that’s definitely bed bugs all right.” 
A shiver ran through my spine. “Ok, what do we do?” 
“Empty your bag and let’s start spraying everything down.” Rina suggested sternly. 
“Spray it down with what?” Jenna asked. 
“With THIS.” Rina held out a huge bottle of a white milky substance. “Turpentine & water. First boil water and dump EVERYTHING into it, then, you spray.” Rina went back to her spraying. She looked content, almost angelic murdering the little buggers. 
“And so the fun begins in our open-ended trip. I guess we spray everything down with turpentine. I just love being covered in paint thinner.” I said sarcastically. 
Jenna gave me a death stare. 
Krishna came out of the house with a pile of household items. He threw books into a mini bin to set on fire and everything else into the bucket of hot water. “You leave tomorrow for Annapurna,'' he said in passing. 
‘Just like that? I was eager to get out of there as I looked around at the heaps of personal belongings we needed to wash. But I was also thinking that we would need more time to wash everything; luckily it was still early. 
By the time we were done spraying and hanging everything that we owned, the front yard looked like a laundry detergent commercial. The sun was beaming down on us and thankfully drying everything quickly. 
“I think we need at least one outfit that is 100% bug free.” Jenna said. “let’s go...” 
“SHOPPING!” We yelled in unison. 
Later on, back at the house I showered, slicked my hair into a ponytail then put on my new clothes. I bought a white t-shirt and dark brown baggy pants. I smiled at myself in the mirror and decided I looked ‘good enough’. I went outside and dumped my clothes into the boiling water then sprayed them down. 
“I think we should find a place to stay tonight. I don’t want to stay here and risk getting eaten alive.” Jenna said as Krishna approached us. 
“I don’t think it’s smart to have you two stay here tonight. If you’re up for it, I can walk you two to a hotel then get you in the morning to meet the bus. Does that work for you?” 
Jenna and I exchanged glances. ‘Did he hear us?’ I thought to myself. “Sure, that sounds like a good idea.” 
I reached out to grab my wet clothes that were hanging to dry. 
“Leave them. I bring them tomorrow for you.” He said with a smile. 
We said our goodbyes to Rina, and headed into Thamel to look for a place to stay. It was already quite late, around 10 pm and I was keeping my fingers crossed that we would be able to find a place to stay. Jenna kept looking at her phone and giggling. 
“Hey,” she whispered to me,“Kamal said that we can go stay with him tonight.” 
“No way dude.” I said sternly. “Krishna already walked us out here and plus, I don’t get a great vibe from them.” 
“You don’t?” 
“No, they’re not trustworthy and I would rather stay at a nice safe hotel. Okay?” 
“Jah jah.” she replied while rolling her eyes. 
After visiting two hotels that were already closed, we found one that was still open. Krishna arranged for us to stay there for 800rs which, I guess is a good deal. The man working at the front desk escorted us to our room and Krishna left. The room was plain, white linens, old yellow walls and a tiny bathroom with a shower and toilet. The idea of having another shower was very tempting, especially because we would be trekking for 15 days starting the day after tomorrow. I was trying to figure out my odds of having hot shower high-up in the Himalayan Mountains.   
By the time I came back to reality the door was closed, Jenna was washing her face and I somehow found the remote for our tiny tube TV circa 1995. I started to flip through the channels and a wave of emotion hit me. We’re leaving Katmandu already; it seems like we just got here. I took out my journal and began writing about the airport, Krishna & Rina, and of course veggie momo. 
“Hey, can you open my bag and grab me the striped shirt? It should be on the top.” Jenna asked. 
I opened Jenna’s bag and jumped back quickly. A huge bug ran out from inside her bag, or from under it or from somewhere else in the room. Standing free and clear from the bag I yelled at Jenna to come see this bug. 
“Is that a bed bug?” She asked.   
“No, bed bugs scatter like cockroaches. I think. Actually, I’m not quite sure. I’ve never seen them.” 
“Well, I’m not sleeping here tonight.” 
“Ummm, it’s after midnight. Where do you think we’re going to go? This is it dude. We’re shacking up with some extra homies tonight.” 
“NOPE. Not going to happen. What about Kamal? We’ve been talking all day!” 
“Still bugging you to get married, eh?” 
“No, well, yes! But that isn’t the point. He said earlier that he has a place for us instead of the hotel.” 
“Absolutely not! I don’t trust them. There’s something ‘off’ about them.” 
“Well, I’m not staying here.” Jenna raised her voice. 
“Ok, well, I’m NOT going with them!” I yelled back at her. 
Jenna packed up her stuff and started to head out the door. 
“Woah dude, hold on. I’m not letting you go out on your own. Are you nuts? Plus, we don’t know if the bug was here before or if WE brought it in.” 
“It doesn’t matter. I’m out.” 
“FINE!” I said, rolling my eyes a million times in my head. I reluctantly grabbed my huge green bag and followed Jenna towards the lobby. “I’m going to try to get a refund before we leave.” 
When we got to the lobby all the lights were off and a metal gate was blocking the exit. I turned and gave Jenna a look. 
“Ok, stop with the looks. Kamal said he will meet us here soon.” 
“Hello, madam?” The small man who worked the front desk earlier jumped to his feet. Both Jenna and I were startled and backed-up quickly from the gate. The lights turned on and we saw that he was sleeping on a couch in the hallway. 
“We need to check out. There was a bug in our room and we’re hoping to get our money back.” I asked calmly. 
He shook his head, “No money back.” 
“There was a bug. We no sleep here. We here 1 hour max. Money back.” I replied, still trying to keep my cool. I turned to Jenna. “We can go back upstairs and forget this ever happened.” Jenna crossed her arms and shook her head no. I was starting to get pissed. I couldn’t sleep at the hotel with the bug, I can’t get my money back. I don’t like the guys that are coming to meet us. My hand turned into a fist. 
“NO MONEY BACK.” 
“Fine. Let’s go Jenna.” I said way louder than I needed to. 
He unlocked the gate for us and we meekly stepped out of the hotel and onto the streets of Thamel at one o’clock in the morning. 
“Hey, there’s an alley over there. Let’s go stand in the alley and I’ll call Kamal.” Jenna said. 
I relaxed my fist and agreed that it was best to not stand on the road like hookers. We walked 10 feet and turned down a dark alley. I dug my hand into my hip bag for anything I could use as a weapon. A lighter, hand sanitizer, a book, chapstick. ‘DAMN I suck at packing,’ I thought to myself. ‘Why don’t I have a huge flashlight or something with me?’ 
“Hey,” Jenna said bringing me back to the present moment. “They’re still looking for the hotel. He said he can’t find it, but should be here soon and that they’re close.” 
“Oh great,” I said sarcastically. “They give me the heebie jeebies and they don’t have a sense of direction. This just keeps getting better and better.” 
“Chill out dude. Everything will be fine.” 
A car stopped on the road. Three men got out and started to call and whistle at us. I grabbed Jenna’s arm. “That’s not them. Kamal is a lot shorter than they are.” 
“Hey, you come with us?” One of the men yelled our way. 
‘Ok, I have my purse. That’s what I can use. Swing my purse to hit them. Kick them in the nuts then run. I’m ready.’ I was in my head again sorting out the fine details of how to get out of here. 
“Pretty girls you come here. Get in car.” They took a step closer. I took a wide stance and I could see Jenna retreating behind me. That was normally the case. She was the flirt that got us into trouble and I’m the badass that has to fight when shit goes down. ‘Okay, I’m ready. Let’s do this thing.” 
They started to walk towards us, “Come with us.” 
“NO!” I yelled back at them.   
One man shrugged his shoulders and they all turned, got into their car and left. 
“Holy crap. That could have been bad. Really really bad.” Jenna said white faced. 
“Call Kamal. Let’s get out of here.” 
Moments later I could hear Jenna on the phone, “what do you mean you don’t know where the hotel is? You live here!” 
My blood was boiling. Jenna looked at me as if I had some magical answer that was going to make everything better. “Where are they?” I asked. 
“The doors to the restaurant that serves Dal Bhat.” 
“Ok, we’ll go to them. Come on.” Jenna and I walked out of the alley and on the streets of Thamel. Luckily, I have a knack for remembering things. “I know exactly where they are. We’re not far. This way.” 
Within five minutes of walking, we saw Kamal and Raja waiting for us at the restaurant. “Man, I can really use some Dal Bhat right now.” I said with a smile. I was happy to see them. My brain kept going back to the worst-case scenario. 
“What hotel do we go to?” Kamal asked. 
“What? We have no place to go. You said YOU have a place for us.” Jenna said, starting to raise her voice. 
“No, friends are over. Everyone drinking and now sleeping on bed.” 
My eyes nearly jumped out of my head. This can’t be happening!!!! 
“We find hotel for you.” Raja said. 
The four of us walked around and tried every hotel we saw. Metal gates were blocking the entrances. We even tried climbing one. Raja lit a cigarette and the smell was intoxicating. It’s been years since I quit but something in that moment made me want to smoke a whole pack. I caved. I had a smoke and it was delicious. Three more failed attempts to find an open hotel and it was nearly three o’clock in the morning. We had run out of options. I was so tired I couldn’t be frustrated anymore. 
Raja spoke up, “you stay with us.” 
Being completely defeated, we agreed. We started towards their place. We left the comfort of the Thamel streets and went into the unknown. Was I safer with these guys or alone? The streets became less friendly as we walked. We approached a dark street with no lights allowing me to see what lay ahead. A man with a HUGE automatic rifle stepped down from somewhere and blocked our path. He and the guys exchanged some words. 
“He wants to know if you two gave us permission to bring you home. And, that you feel safe.” Kamal said with a genuine smile. 
We both nodded our heads yes. He stepped onto a little platform allowing us to pass. “That’s amazing that the police stopped us.” I said with a noticeable inflex in my voice. 
“There’s been murders and rapes. So, police always out now. Better this way.” Raja said. 
We finally made it to their house. I was relieved to be off the streets, but as soon as I saw where they lived, I wished instantly I was back at the hotel. They lived in a tiny room which fit a double bed where two young guys passed-out drunk were sleeping. My guard went back up. I forgot that they were hammered. Another double mattress was on the floor. There was a counter that lined one wall that was full of random things; a hot plate, stacks of books, open chip bags and, of course bottles of beer and hard alcohol. The guys told us about the toilet outside and said that the four of us will be sleeping together on the floor. I gave Jenna the ‘I’m not sleeping in the middle face’, and she knew exactly what I meant. We all laid down in a row. I used my backpack as a pillow and attempted to close my eyes and relax. Five seconds later they were open again. No way was I sleeping here. It was the dirtiest place I’ve ever been in. I looked around the room to ensure I had a quick exit. The room was smaller than my bathroom at home so it wouldn’t take much to escape. I started to see movement in the chip bag two feet from my face. It was the same bug as at the hotel! I swallowed my scream. They were everywhere. My eyes darted from one to the next. It was like a mass gathering preparing to eat me alive. Time passed and I stopped praying for them to not eat me. Everyone, all four guys and Jenna, were all sound asleep and here I was counting bugs! Time stood still; it was like morning would never come.    
Time passed and the sun started to pour into the room making what I saw last night even worse. I got up and needed to pee. “Stupid small bladder”,  I said to myself. I walked out of the room, down planks of wood to a common toilet? How many people use this toilet? Who cleans it? I shut my mind up before I went too far. I opened the door to a hole in the floor. A smell hit me like a tonne of bricks. I held my breath and straddled over the toilet. Unfortunately, it was one of the morning visits that took forever!!! Just before my legs went numb, I finished. I followed the wooden planks back to the room and woke Jenna up. 
“Let’s get out of here.” 
Jenna silently nodded, got up and nudged Kamal to say goodbye. We waved at them and left. 
“I’m so happy it’s morning.” I said trying to break the ice. 
“I’m tired. Want to get a coffee on our way back to meet Krishna?” 
“Oh, heck YES!” I said with a smile.  

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    The TRAVELLING Yogi

    This story is based on real events and names have been changed to protect the privacy of the individuals. 

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